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So, I've been remodeling a house, mine to live in.

 

Question #1

House was built in 51, 2X10 joists 16 oc. Random width planking nailed perpindicular to the joists.  I screwed down another layer of 3/4 osb.  Can I run my hardwood any direction I want now?  I want it to run parallel with the joists to make it flow.

 

#2

There is a partial crawlspace.  I spray foamed the foundation of the crawlspace, as well as the entire house. (2")  It is dry as a bone and is vented to my basement by 2 old window well windows (2x3).  I really want 4" #2 Maple.  Think that might be a little risky?

I also have a woodstove in the basement that I will use secondary, and humidify as neccessary.

 

Thanks.

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Replies to This Discussion

#1 Yes and if you wanna be extra safe put down another layer of 1/4, but you should be fine without.

#2 4" Maple is always risky and just expect, as you know, some movement. Keep the environmental equillibrium and you will be fine .
Thanks Dale. I would expect movement, just wondering how much. As bad as hickory? Never installed or even seen a 4" maple floor, just don't know what to expect.
Nor,
Hired someone. It was actually less than if I was to do it myself. I had ~1800 sf at 2". DIY kits are $1 per bd ft. So 1800 X 2"= $3600. With the DIY kits you never get the amount you're supposed to. I did the crawlspace myself. I got about half the coverage I was supposed to.
He charged me $3500 for closed cell foam. Plus, he knew what he was doing. I would have found some way to fuck it up...LOL
Maple's Dimensional change coefficient is better than Hickory and Red Oak { More stable } but I Started out installing gym floors with 2-1/4 Maple and we would build in expansion rows within the flooring depending on the MC% and RH, so you could see roughly a 1/2" of movement in 6' but that is in an uncontrolled environment where there is greater fluctuations. The 4" Maple will be fine, just balance the environment and expect some minor gapping in the winter that will close up in the summer and with 4" material having a larger surface area as opposed to 2-1/4 you'll get more pronounced appearance of those gaps and subtle cupping in some situations. If you want Maple and are willing to control the environment, then go for it, it's a great looking floor and no it's not as bad as Hickory.
Cool, that's what I wanted to hear. You know it's funny, got me thinking... People around here only want Oak, Maple is even a rarity. I once installed a 5" Red Elm floor. 97% of my installs are Oak though.
We just repaired/ refinished a random width{3,4,&5} 1st grade Maple floor this past spring, other than those seasonal gaps the floor was in great shape. Removing the old Bacca/ Glitsa finish that the original installer used and applying Aqua Tenax and Idro 2K it took away that old yellowed gym floor look and left Maple's true light color which I think is a fantastic look. I might have some pics laying around somewhere or a video.....Most of our installs are Red Oak as well...
Pics would be great! Was going to try to stay away from omu on this one, but haven't had good luck with wb on maple lately...
Vermeister Aqua Tenax and Idro 2K
Ben,

Just last month we installed 1st grade Maple on a diaganol 800ft. Finished with Boner DTS and three coats of Mega with booster. DTS gave it just a lttle color it needs without looking like the profit said "gym floor look"
Dts is clear, no yellowish color. Mega has alittle yellow twinge to it though. Groover I don't understand your explanation of your coating maple, please advise.
Geo I don't either!!lol Dts is clear but does impart a little color like VM aqua tenax. And yes shmeggs adds a little more....

Nice. I used Poloplaz's Prism on a maple job once. Looks very similar. Scared to use WB on maple anymore though. Don't know what i"m doing wrong, but I haven't changed from when I was successful at it...



I posted pics of my project in Norwood's remodel group.

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